![]() ![]() Tools - A soldering iron and solder, and hex wrenches or a screw driver for putting the case together. For the power connections I used crimp connectors that I picked up from my local hardware store, including female blades for the power switch and spade connectors for the power supply. 1/2" expandable sleeve for the wires going to the heated bed. If you use the 3D printed case I include, then you will need M3x8 screws for the lid and screws for attaching your power supply. Heatshrink tubing is great for protecting the connections. Misc - I used wire that I had on hand, including breadboard jumpers for the low voltage and heavier wire for the 12v cabling. ($27) You can use anything you like, including the typical piece of glass from your local hardware store. I used a magnetic PEI flex plate because they make it super easy to remove prints. Print Surface - Once you add the heated bed you will need to put a print surface on it. Power Switch - This used a common computer power cord, includes a fuse, and give the project a finished look. It proved to be well made and worked great. Heated Bed - You can't beat the price for this one. Mine did not, so I used this external one. ($30) In theory, if your printer has a 12v supply and can spare the amps for the heated bed you could leverage that. ($9)ġ2v Power Supply - Any 12v supply with about 30 amps will work. You could easily adapter this for any display you prefer. (<$1)ĭisplay - I'm using an OLED display because I like the clean interface. You should be able to use any that you have handy or can pick one up. ($4)ġ0k Potentiometer - I had one from a sensor kit. ![]() You can use any cable that you can sacrifice and cut off just enough to cable the power. USB Adapter - The Arduino Mini that I used requires a mini USB for power. (<$5)īuck Converter - This lets us step down the 12v from the power supply to 5v to power the Arduino. The project doesn't require much horsepower, so any Arduino will do. Note, the one linked supports a PWM signal. MOSFET - This is used to control the current to the heated bed and run it with an Arduino. I encourage you to use a breadboard and test it as well before you break out the soldering iron! I hope this helps other looking to do this, or a similar project! When I started on this project I had a hard time finding any clear instructions, so I worked through each part of the build and tested until I understood how to make it work and then I pulled it all together. Please read through this Instructable before jumping in and feel free to adjust and use the parts and methods that you have handy or are comfortable with. This Instructable focuses on the heated bed and controller, so you will need to tackle mounting the heated bed for your printer. If you have this printer, check out my adapter on Thingiverse. For my project, I needed to convert the built plate from the factory version and designed an adapter so that I could mount the heated bed I used in this project. I finally decided it was time to resolve those issues and added a heated bed. The factory build plate is also somewhat limiting in what kind of build surfaces you can use. I have a FlashForge Finder 3D printer that did not come with a heated bed. ![]()
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